Conrad Gesner 1516-1565: Fishbuch: Bream, Triggerfish - Folio with 5 woodcuts - 1563

$350.00

Collecting antique prints is one of the most rewarding ways to live with history. A genuine print is not simply an image from the past but a physical object that was handled, printed, colored, sold, and preserved across generations. For new collectors, however, one concern almost always comes first: how do you know an antique print is real and not a modern reproduction?

This is a fair question. Reproductions are everywhere. Some are clearly decorative, others are intentionally deceptive, and many sit in a gray area where sellers themselves may not fully understand what they are offering. Learning how to distinguish an authentic antique print from a later copy is not difficult, but it does require knowing what to look for and what questions to ask. This guide explains the core elements that matter, using plain language and practical observation rather than jargon.

Why reproductions exist and why they cause confusion

Reproductions exist for many reasons. Some were created in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries to meet demand for famous images that had become scarce. Others were produced in the late twentieth century as decorative items meant to evoke an antique look without the cost. More recently, high resolution digital scanning and modern printing techniques have made it easy to produce convincing looking copies at scale.

The problem is not reproduction itself but misrepresentation. A decorative reproduction sold as such is harmless. A modern print presented as an eighteenth century engraving is not. Because online marketplaces mix sellers of varying expertise and honesty, collectors need to rely on their own understanding rather than descriptions alone.

Conrad Gesner [Konrad Gessner] 1516-1565: Fishbuch: Halibut, Flatfish - Folio with woodcuts - 1620

$330.00

The importance of paper

Paper is one of the most reliable indicators of authenticity. Antique prints were printed on papers made very differently from modern stock. Before the early nineteenth century, paper was typically handmade from linen and cotton rags. This produces a surface that is strong, flexible, and irregular in subtle ways.

When examining an antique print, look closely at the paper texture. Genuine early paper often shows slight variations in thickness and tone. It does not look perfectly uniform. If you hold it up to light, you may see chain lines or laid lines, faint parallel lines created by the paper mold during manufacture. These are not defects but signs of hand production.

Modern paper, by contrast, is machine made. It tends to be uniformly smooth, evenly white or artificially toned, and consistent edge to edge. Even when aged intentionally, it often lacks the structural character of older paper. Artificial aging usually affects the surface color but not the internal structure.

Plate marks and impressions

Most antique prints were produced using intaglio processes such as engraving or etching. In these methods, ink is pushed into incised lines on a metal plate, and damp paper is pressed into the plate under high pressure. This process leaves a physical impression.

A genuine antique print will usually show a plate mark, a rectangular or oval indentation around the image where the plate pressed into the paper. This mark is not printed but embossed. You can often feel it by gently running a finger across the surface or see it clearly when the print is viewed at an angle.

Modern reproductions frequently lack true plate marks. Some may imitate the look by printing a faint border or artificially embossing the paper, but these imitations tend to look shallow and uniform. Real plate marks vary slightly in depth and clarity, especially on older prints where the plate was reinked and reused over time.

Conrad Gesner [1516-1565] - Whitethroat, Goldcrest, ornithology, folio with 2 woodcuts - 1669

$200.00

Ink and printing quality

The ink used in antique prints behaves differently from modern inks. Engraved lines in authentic prints often appear slightly raised or textured under magnification. The ink sits within the grooves pressed into the paper rather than resting flat on the surface.

Under close inspection, you may see tiny variations in line thickness or ink density. This is normal and expected. Early printing was done by hand, and each impression carries subtle differences.

Modern reproductions, especially digital prints, often show perfectly uniform lines. Under magnification, they may reveal dot patterns or smooth tonal gradients that were not possible in early printmaking. These are strong indicators of later production.

Hand coloring versus modern color printing

Many antique prints were originally printed in black ink and then colored by hand. Hand coloring was done with watercolor or gouache and applied individually. This means no two examples are exactly alike.

Look closely at colored areas. Hand coloring often shows slight variation in saturation, uneven edges, or brush overlap. Colors may sit lightly on the paper rather than forming a uniform layer. Under magnification, you should not see dot patterns.

Modern color printing uses mechanical or digital processes that produce consistent color distribution. If colors appear perfectly uniform across the entire image or show a halftone pattern, the print is almost certainly a reproduction.

It is also worth noting that some antique prints were issued uncolored and colored later, sometimes decades after printing. This does not make them reproductions, but it does affect value and should be disclosed by the seller.

Signs of age that are difficult to fake

Age leaves evidence that is hard to reproduce convincingly. Genuine antique prints often show oxidation or toning that develops slowly over time. This may appear as gentle darkening of the paper or light foxing, small brownish spots caused by impurities in the paper reacting with humidity.

Edges may show wear, small tears, or softening from handling. These signs are not flaws but part of an object’s history. Excessively uniform staining or dramatic discoloration applied evenly across a sheet can indicate artificial aging.

Smell can also be a clue. Old paper has a distinct scent that is difficult to replicate. While this is not a definitive test, experienced collectors often recognize it immediately.

Conrad Gesner [1516-1565] - Cuckoo, ornithology, folio with woodcut - 1669

$220.00

Size and trimming

Many antique prints were originally issued with margins. Over time, some were trimmed for framing or binding. This does not necessarily mean a print is inauthentic, but extreme trimming can remove plate marks or other identifying features.

If a print seems unusually small or cropped tight to the image, it is worth asking whether margins were cut and when. A modern reproduction is often printed to the exact image size with no historical margin context.

Provenance and seller disclosure

No physical test replaces transparent documentation. Reputable dealers describe prints accurately, including approximate date, printing method, condition issues, and whether coloring is contemporary or later. They do not rely on vague phrases or exaggerated claims.

Be cautious of listings that use terms like vintage style, old master after, or museum quality without clear explanation. These phrases are often used to avoid making verifiable statements.

Ask questions. A legitimate seller should be able to explain why a print is dated as it is and how they determined its authenticity. Evasive or defensive responses are a warning sign.

Conrad Gesner [1516-1565] - Partridge, Plover, ornithology, folio with 2 woodcuts - 1669

$300.00

Online buying and realistic expectations

Buying antique prints online requires careful reading and visual scrutiny. High quality photographs are essential. You should be able to see paper texture, edges, and plate marks clearly. If images are overly filtered, heavily cropped, or deliberately vague, proceed with caution.

Price can also be a clue, though it should never be the sole criterion. If a supposed seventeenth century engraving is priced like a modern poster, something is likely wrong. At the same time, high prices alone do not guarantee authenticity.

Learning over time

The most reliable way to develop confidence is exposure. Handle real prints when possible. Compare examples from museums, libraries, and established dealers. Over time, your eye will become trained, and what once felt uncertain will become intuitive.

Collecting antique prints is not about catching sellers in mistakes but about understanding objects deeply. When you learn how paper feels, how ink behaves, and how age presents itself honestly, authenticity becomes less mysterious.

Final thoughts

An authentic antique print carries physical evidence of its origin. Paper, ink, impression, and age all tell a story that modern reproductions struggle to imitate convincingly. While no single feature guarantees authenticity, the combination of these elements creates a clear picture.

Approach collecting with patience and curiosity rather than fear. Ask questions, examine closely, and buy from sources that value accuracy over persuasion. With time, the difference between a true antique print and a reproduction becomes not only visible but obvious.

How to Tell If an Antique Print Is Authentic and Not a Reproduction